***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please don't just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).

Too Bold For Steve Boot V1 5b
Use the nastily sloping ramp to crank to the jug. The huge jug on the "arete" is most definately not in. If used its more like 4c.

Set Square
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**Tequila Sunrise V2 5c
Use a circular hold thats better than it looks to perform a (beautiful) rock over onto a small ledge. From here use small holds to gain the "jug that is not a jug" before catching the top. A hold that appears poor and a hold thats not as positive as it seems make for much discovery in such a short route. One of my Pex Hill "Top 5". If only it were longer.

**Harvey Wallbanger V2 5c
Use the twin slots and a small edge to reach the big jug. The faint of heart can use the huge tree branch to top out. Another of my personal Pex Hill favourites.

Black Russian
Hard to find and dirty. Not even sure if Ive done this one or whether it was merely a contrived eliminate. Will reserve judgment for someone who has made a definite ascent.

*Lew's Leap V1 5b
Climb to the first of the beehives. The top out can be assisted by the railing.

Finger Ripper
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***Bermuda Triangle E2/E3(?) 6a
A fantastic route that may require several bouldering mats to reach the starting holds if you're short. Use a series of monos and a jug to reach the second beehive. The crux is getting off the ground but another tricky move (5b/5c) remains at the top for those who wish to top out. Shorties can try...

Cosine Alternative
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Breakaway V6 6b(+?)
The problem has suffered from wire brushing but discussion on a new grade has resulted in popular opinion being that the climb is only slightly easier than before. Andy Popp disagrees and believes it to be considerably easier. Use small holds to reach a desperate move from the crescent hold to the jug. Topping out optional and requiring intense gardening beforehand. The technical grade was previously 6c but is now probably lower. I have suggested 6b+ as it feels considerable harder than 6b to me but seeing as Ive never knowingly done a 6c move before Im leaving the final decision to someone more in the know. If you have repeated this in its new state then please suggest a grade.

***Catalepsy

***Monoblock

** Bernie

Termination

Philarmonic

** Algripper E2 5c
A real tall mans route. Those who are lanky enough will be able to stretch past all difficulties and find the crux to be a rock up low down. Tinies are not so lucky and should be more cautious of this solo.

Jurssic Pork

Crossbow

** Lady Jane E1 5c
Trend right to the large beehives at the top wherein lie a pair of jugs. Downclimb rightwards via twinscoops if nervous or top out.

Sidestep

Twin Scoops Direct

*Twin Scoops HVS 4c/5a
An easy mantel on to the top ledge leads to a traverse left on thank god jugs and poor foot holds (can feel bold the first time you do it). Finish direct up the left niche(scoop). A good route to get your soloing head back on!


Twin Scoops Right Hand

** Creeping Jesus
Use the cracks (nut protection?) to the right of Twin Scoops to climb to better holds.

Kitt's Wall

The Black Pimp From Marseilles
The route takes its name from a character that a local met while hitch hiking.

Unicorn

Cave Route Right Hand

Ladytron

** Cardiac Arete E4 6b
Difficult moves lead to a large Jug. From here put you heart in your mouth and make precarious/bouldery (V5) moves (crux) to reach easier ground.


***Hart's Arete E4 6b
A puzzling boulder problem start (V3 Ha ha!) leads to the break. From here slightly easier climbing leads to the top. Protection can be arranged via a small friend on the arete and a medium sized nut in the triangular cut-out on on the right then a bomber friend 1 in the slot near the top. Fiend thinks this is E3.

**Zigger Zagger 5b
A devilishly sloping top-out which has been the cause of several accidents. Can be done direct at 5c and to the right also at 5c.

**Big Greenie E3 5c
Pete Chadwick's guide shows the wrong start for this. It takes the exquisitely technical pex 5c problem to the left of Crack and Up to a large friend in the horizontal crack to the left. The top second crux 5c move to a sloping top (you've been warned) is protected by a small friend in a slot up on the left. A very good route.

The Hulk 5c
Takes same start as Big Greenie but then goes slightly right to large pod to left of Crack and Up.

Harts Arete Traverse
High V3
Low V5/6?
Ultra low (The Grand horizontal) V9+
The high traverse follows the obvious break and can be done in both directions between Crack and Up & Unicorn. Grade: Remains the same.
The low traverse follows the obvious break and can be done in both directions between Crack and Up & Unicorn. Grade : Feels very hard/pumpy for V5. Personally I felt it was closer to V7 for effort( but then maybe I'm just being a big girl).
The ultra low traverse is more eliminate and uses all the poor holds at waist height. it starts at the good hold on Unicorn and then drops down to small side pulls. finish at Hearts Arete. Grade V9+. There is also another (even harder) low traverse from Harts Arete to Crack and Up. This goes at a similar grade V9/10?. Link both and feel the pump! Grade V10/11?

**Crack And Up E1 5b
A tricky start leads to a break for gear and bold but considerably easier (and well protected from halfway) climbing above to the final crack. All manner of variation starts can be made.


*Corner and Overhang 5b
Take Crack and Up start but when you reach break move right then up to boreholes and top via the overhang which is surprisingly easy.

**McArthur Park 6a start then 5a
Utilises obvious rounded pocket as foothold. Nice climbing above - well protected too.

**Eliminate One E2 5b
A filler in if ever there was one, but surpisingly good and independent climbing. Take boulder problem start immediately to the left of the Abort then up to horizontal crack at 3/4 height which provides good friend protection for nice top moves.

**The Abort E1 5a
A lovely route. Protection is best arranged as for previous route. Take care with flake near top - letterbox is better option.

**Eliminate Two E2 5c
Another filler in but again surprisingly good and independent climbing. Take boulder problem start between the Abort and One Step (tip - think Egyptian) aiming for the left hand end of the One Step mini cave. A wonderful two finger pocket (if you can find it) is the key to the top moves.

** One Step E1 5a
Step off the rock in the ground and climb the wall direct past the alcove and mini cave above. Protection can be arranged in the horizontal crack between the two.


*Eliminate Three 5c
An eliminate (now there's a surprise). Climb the left hand wall of the Web. Surprisingly technical and strenuous.

***The Web HVS 5a/5b
A cool corner that the tall will dispatch with ease. Minis will have to use the pair of smears on the opposing walls to gain the higher handholds. Well protected with WC rocks and/or small friends. Take care with the flake near the top.