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Memorial Wall and surrounding areas routes
***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for Pisa Wall and Lady Jane routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please dont just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).
Ramble 4c
Short Crack 4a/b
Climb the pocketed wall to the short flake and the recess. Quick & dirty.
Heather Wall 5b
Bon Ami
*Master Race E5 6b?
A few feet left of the rack, make moves from a broken pebble/sidepull to gain the left most pocket of the lower three( a bit eliminate!). From here gain the left most edge of the rack and contemplate a scary mantle (crux), which is just a bit higher than you would like. From here ???. Short but committing, with an awkward and shelved landing zone. You may want to employ more than one spotter?
***The Rack HVS 5a
Reachy climbing between spaced holds. Harder for the short (but not that hard). Very soft touch for E1. Be careful not to fluff the top out (very sandy)!
The Rack Wall then merges into Gazebo Wall. This area is in fact covered in routes but overgrowth and constant seepage has meant it has fallen into disuse.
**Sweeney Arete V0 5a
Ascend the arete that joins Gazebo Wall to Memorial Wall which is often wet at the bottom. The top out is more positive on the right hand side. Very nice.
The Robbery V1 5b
Climb the wall just to the right of the arete without using it. The climb takes its name from the second ascent. Phil Davidson repeated the route and stole the pebbles that nestled in the slot at the top.
Headstone
Memorial Wall 4b
Wind left and mantle.
Tombstone
Memorial Corner 4b
Frequently wet.
**Hunter's Walk V2 5c
Said to be one of the best little lines of Pex and a scary outing. The top out is often overgrown and is slopey.
St Paul
Please only include routes from surrounding areas if they are worth doing and the rock is clean. Much of Vag Crap Wall and Philander Wall is unclimbable due to complete takeover by gorse and Gazebo Wall is practically a waterfall all year round.
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).
Ramble 4c
Short Crack 4a/b
Climb the pocketed wall to the short flake and the recess. Quick & dirty.
Heather Wall 5b
Bon Ami
*Master Race E5 6b?
A few feet left of the rack, make moves from a broken pebble/sidepull to gain the left most pocket of the lower three( a bit eliminate!). From here gain the left most edge of the rack and contemplate a scary mantle (crux), which is just a bit higher than you would like. From here ???. Short but committing, with an awkward and shelved landing zone. You may want to employ more than one spotter?
***The Rack HVS 5a
Reachy climbing between spaced holds. Harder for the short (but not that hard). Very soft touch for E1. Be careful not to fluff the top out (very sandy)!
The Rack Wall then merges into Gazebo Wall. This area is in fact covered in routes but overgrowth and constant seepage has meant it has fallen into disuse.
**Sweeney Arete V0 5a
Ascend the arete that joins Gazebo Wall to Memorial Wall which is often wet at the bottom. The top out is more positive on the right hand side. Very nice.
The Robbery V1 5b
Climb the wall just to the right of the arete without using it. The climb takes its name from the second ascent. Phil Davidson repeated the route and stole the pebbles that nestled in the slot at the top.
Headstone
Memorial Wall 4b
Wind left and mantle.
Tombstone
Memorial Corner 4b
Frequently wet.
**Hunter's Walk V2 5c
Said to be one of the best little lines of Pex and a scary outing. The top out is often overgrown and is slopey.
St Paul
Please only include routes from surrounding areas if they are worth doing and the rock is clean. Much of Vag Crap Wall and Philander Wall is unclimbable due to complete takeover by gorse and Gazebo Wall is practically a waterfall all year round.
Latest page update: made by nwilliams
, Apr 23 2007, 4:15 AM EDT
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Edited by nwilliams
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RichH | Master Race | 0 | Apr 21 2007, 6:00 PM EDT by RichH | |
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Thread started: Apr 21 2007, 6:00 PM EDT
Watch
Me and Neil had a play on this on Friday and the mantle is utterly desperate it seems! Can any old timers give some pointers on how far left your feet/hands can go. The obvious way to me was trying to pull down on the sweaty right hand pocket above the ledge and pressing down on left arm to get your right foot on the ledge and try to rock over a bit to bring left foot up as well but my right hand kept scraping out the pocket painfully! It's an awesome route/highball and clearly paddable with 3 pads and 2 spotters :)
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