***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for Pisa Wall and Lady Jane routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please dont just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).

Traverses
A great traverse goes at 5b from the arete at low to mid level to The Rack. Can be continued to Vag Crap traverse R of Memorial Corner. Cleaned up 2009.
Gaming Club Arete and Wall
This once popular area was rehabilitated in Sep 2009 and provided with belays. Section from here to The Rack completed Dec 09.
Gaming Club 5a/5b
The obvious arete. Technical and tricky. For those less than 6'4'', solid Pex 5b
Unnamed route to right 6b?
Just to right of arete to first borehole. Polished at bottom, reachy at top
Sandinista 6a
From first mini corner to third borehole and cave. Move L to line of holds above cave then back R to tough finish
Fallout Zone 5c
A good route. From second mini corner climb to small flake then nice moves to obvious pocket. Finish is crux.
Pure Mania 6a/6b
From third mini corner climb direct with fingery/reachy crux
Casino Club left (unnamed) 6a
Start 5 feet L of obvious corner (Casino Club 5a) and climb diagonally R to flake halfway up corner. Use this to move back onto wall and climb diagonally L. To climb direct would be at least 6c.
Casino club 5a
Obvious corner
The Talisman 4c
Centre of wall via old peg slots
A Route 3a
Obvious chimney. Useful as a descent route
B route 3a
Ledges and wide crack to R
Bramble 5a
Corner groove
Ramble 4c
Direct to oak tree (belay)
Short Crack 4b
Climb the pocketed wall to the short flake and the recess. Quick & dirty.
Heather Wall 5b
Bon Ami 5a
Direct to cut out at top
Bon Gre Malgre 5b *
From edge of ledge. don't fall off!
Master Race E5 6b?
A few feet left of the rack, make moves from a broken pebble/sidepull to gain the left most pocket of the lower three( a bit eliminate!). From here gain the left most edge of the rack and contemplate a scary mantle (crux), which is just a bit higher than you would like. From here ???. Short but committing, with an awkward and shelved landing zone. You may want to employ more than one spotter?

***The Rack HVS 5a
Reachy climbing between spaced holds. Harder for the short (but not that hard). Very soft touch for E1. Be careful not to fluff the top out (very sandy)!. Top cleaned & gorse removed May 09.

The Rack Wall then merges into Torture Wall. Overgrowth and `seepage meant that it fell into disuse. This area - Torture Wall - was rehabilitated 2009 and is now clean and dry and provided with belays.

Just right of The Rack:

Pipe Down 5c
The thin crack. Hard bridging and finger layaways to start. Belay on tree.

The next three routes are on excellent rock and soloable with a good mat but have been provided with belays (set well back) for the prudent! The obvious ledge at eight feet provides a nice hand traverse at 5b.

*Thumbscrew 5b
Line of holds five feet to right.
**Iron Maiden 5c
Up and through the crescent shaped scoop. Crux at the top. A Pex classic from the old days.

The blank wall to the right awaits an ascent.

*Garotte 5b Start to the left of obvious V cut out. Move right to finish up cut out.
Bon Bon 4a The obvious corner.
Gazebo 5a The right wall of the corner

Memorial Wall is a sun trap and gives nice bouldering. Was once most popular bit of Pex. Rehabilitated April-May 09 with added belay.. Ah, nostalgia's not what it used to be....
The low level traverse is a good warm up.

**Sweeney Arete V0 5a
Ascend the arete that joins Gazebo Wall to Memorial Wall which is often wet at the bottom. The top out is more positive on the right hand side. Very nice. Old way down on left cleaned May 09.

*The Robbery V1 5b
Climb the wall just to the right of the arete without using it. The climb takes its name from the second ascent. Phil Davidson repeated the route and stole the pebbles that nestled in the slot at the top.
Headstone V4 6a
Crux at top! Scary.
**Memorial Wall 4b
Wind left and then right to mantle.
*Tombstone 5a
Pleasant.
*Memorial Corner 4b
Frequently wet. Bone dry May 09.

The routes on Vag Crap wall to the right are just about soloable but take a good mat! Rehabilitated and belays installed 2009.


**Hunter's Walk V2 5c
One of the best little lines of Pex and a scary outing. Five feet right of corner. The top out was often overgrown and slopey. Top cleaned off April 2009 and is now OK.
*St Paul V2 5c/6a
Ten feet right. Obvious line of pockets. Cleaned May 09. Right hand finish into cut-out is OK at 5c but left hand and direct are both solid pex 6a - tip, big pocket at top is not as accommodating as it looks. First ascent Paul Bolger - called Caligula but went in guide as St Paul because Phil Davidson couldn't spell Caligula.
*Weasel 5b
10 feet right into cut out. Line of pockets which provide good undercuts.
*Ferret 5a Just to right
*Vag Crap Traverse 6a
A classic test-piece with feet a few feet off the deck from Corner to Swinging Gulch. If you cruise this try the low level one at 6c with feet a foot off the deck (1st ascent Willy Simm). So-called because the first ascentionist was thown out of the Vagabonds club! Pebbles chipped out by amateur geologists & repaired by amateur sandstone repairmen.
*Swinging Gulch VS 4c
A Pex rarity - a well-protected VS on perfect rock! Top cleaned April 2009. Climb to cave passing two perfect nut cracks. A big friend protects top crux move on left.
*Sabre Cut VS 4c
Another one! Follow the shot holes - top one takes a bomber small friend - to ledge. Another slot takes a good small friend. Friends in the sabre cut crack protect the top move right. Cleaned April 2009.

Please only include routes from surrounding areas if they are worth doing and the rock is clean. Much of Vag Crap Wall and Philander Wall is unclimbable due to complete takeover by gorse and Gazebo Wall is practically a waterfall all year round.
Note Top of Vag Crap Wall cleaned & provided with stake belays April - May 09. Memorial Wall & Vag Crap wall form a sun trap & give superb high ball bouldering - or top roping (tip - the cruxes are often at the top).