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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
|---|---|---|
| Jun 3 2009, 6:22 PM EDT | Pekkie | 165 words added, 4 words deleted |
| Apr 30 2009, 5:31 PM EDT | Pekkie | 184 words added, 6 words deleted |
Changes
Key: Additions Deletions
***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for Pisa Wall and Lady Jane routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please dont just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).
Ramble 4c
Short Crack 4a/b
Climb the pocketed wall to the short flake and the recess. Quick & dirty.
Heather Wall 5b
Bon Ami
*Master Race E5 6b?
A few feet left of the rack, make moves from a broken pebble/sidepull to gain the left most pocket of the lower three( a bit eliminate!). From here gain the left most edge of the rack and contemplate a scary mantle (crux), which is just a bit higher than you would like. From here ???. Short but committing, with an awkward and shelved landing zone. You may want to employ more than one spotter?
***The Rack HVS 5a
Reachy climbing between spaced holds. Harder for the short (but not that hard). Very soft touch for E1. Be careful not to fluff the top out (very sandy)!sandy)!. Top cleaned & gorse removed May 09.
The Rack Wall then merges into Gazebo Wall. This area is in fact covered in routes but overgrowth and constant seepage has meant it has fallen into disuse.
Memorial Wall is a sun trap and gives nice bouldering. Was once most popular bit of Pex. Rehabilitated April-May 09. Ah, nostalgia's not what it used to be....
The low level traverse is a good warm up.
**Sweeney Arete V0 5a
Ascend the arete that joins Gazebo Wall to Memorial Wall which is often wet at the bottom. The top out is more positive on the right hand side. Very nice. Old way down on left cleaned May 09.
The Robbery V1 5b
Climb the wall just to the right of the arete without using it. The climb takes its name from the second ascent. Phil Davidson repeated the route and stole the pebbles that nestled in the slot at the top.
Headstone V4 6a
Crux at top! Scary.
Memorial Wall 4b
Wind left and then right to mantle.
Tombstone 5a
Pleasant.
Memorial Corner 4b
Frequently wet. Bone dry May 09.
**Hunter's Walk V2 5c
One of the best little lines of Pex and a scary outing. Five feet right of corner. The top out was often overgrown and slopey. Top cleaned off April 2009 and is now OK.
St Paul V2 5c
Ten feet right. Obvious line of pockets. Awaits a clean. Cleaned May 09. Right hand finish is OK at 5c but left hand is solid pex 6a - tip, big pocket at top is not as accommodating as it looks. First ascent Paul Bolger - called Caligula but went in guide as St Paul because Phil Davidson couldn't spell Caligula.
Weasel 5b
10 feet right. Line of pockets which provide good undercuts.
Vag Crap Traverse 6a
A classic test-piece with feet a few feet off the deck from Corner to Swinging GulchGulch. If you cruise this try the low level one at 6c with feet a foot off the deck.deck (1st ascent Co-calledWilly Simm). So-called because the first ascentionist was thown out of the Vagabonds club! Pebbles chipped out by amateur geologists & repaired by amateur sandstone repairmen.
*Swinging Gulch VS 4c
A Pex rarity - a well-protected VS on perfect rock! Top cleaned April 2009. Climb to cave passing two perfect nut cracks. A big friend protects top crux move on left.
*Sabre Cut VS 4c
Another one! Follow the shot holes - top one takes a bomber small friend - to ledge. Another slot takes a good small friend. Friends in the sabre cut crack protect the top move right. Cleaned April 2009.
Please only include routes from surrounding areas if they are worth doing and the rock is clean. Much of Vag Crap Wall and Philander Wall is unclimbable due to complete takeover by gorse and Gazebo Wall is practically a waterfall all year round.
Note Top of Vag Crap Wall cleaned & provided with stake belays April - May 09. Memorial Wall & Vag Crap wall form a sun trap & give superb high ball bouldering - or top roping (tip - the cruxes are often at the top).
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).
Ramble 4c
Short Crack 4a/b
Climb the pocketed wall to the short flake and the recess. Quick & dirty.
Heather Wall 5b
Bon Ami
*Master Race E5 6b?
A few feet left of the rack, make moves from a broken pebble/sidepull to gain the left most pocket of the lower three( a bit eliminate!). From here gain the left most edge of the rack and contemplate a scary mantle (crux), which is just a bit higher than you would like. From here ???. Short but committing, with an awkward and shelved landing zone. You may want to employ more than one spotter?
***The Rack HVS 5a
Reachy climbing between spaced holds. Harder for the short (but not that hard). Very soft touch for E1. Be careful not to fluff the top out (very sandy)!sandy)!. Top cleaned & gorse removed May 09.
The Rack Wall then merges into Gazebo Wall. This area is in fact covered in routes but overgrowth and constant seepage has meant it has fallen into disuse.
Memorial Wall is a sun trap and gives nice bouldering. Was once most popular bit of Pex. Rehabilitated April-May 09. Ah, nostalgia's not what it used to be....
The low level traverse is a good warm up.
**Sweeney Arete V0 5a
Ascend the arete that joins Gazebo Wall to Memorial Wall which is often wet at the bottom. The top out is more positive on the right hand side. Very nice. Old way down on left cleaned May 09.
The Robbery V1 5b
Climb the wall just to the right of the arete without using it. The climb takes its name from the second ascent. Phil Davidson repeated the route and stole the pebbles that nestled in the slot at the top.
Headstone V4 6a
Crux at top! Scary.
Memorial Wall 4b
Wind left and then right to mantle.
Tombstone 5a
Pleasant.
Memorial Corner 4b
Frequently wet. Bone dry May 09.
**Hunter's Walk V2 5c
One of the best little lines of Pex and a scary outing. Five feet right of corner. The top out was often overgrown and slopey. Top cleaned off April 2009 and is now OK.
St Paul V2 5c
Ten feet right. Obvious line of pockets. Awaits a clean. Cleaned May 09. Right hand finish is OK at 5c but left hand is solid pex 6a - tip, big pocket at top is not as accommodating as it looks. First ascent Paul Bolger - called Caligula but went in guide as St Paul because Phil Davidson couldn't spell Caligula.
Weasel 5b
10 feet right. Line of pockets which provide good undercuts.
Vag Crap Traverse 6a
A classic test-piece with feet a few feet off the deck from Corner to Swinging GulchGulch. If you cruise this try the low level one at 6c with feet a foot off the deck.deck (1st ascent Co-calledWilly Simm). So-called because the first ascentionist was thown out of the Vagabonds club! Pebbles chipped out by amateur geologists & repaired by amateur sandstone repairmen.
*Swinging Gulch VS 4c
A Pex rarity - a well-protected VS on perfect rock! Top cleaned April 2009. Climb to cave passing two perfect nut cracks. A big friend protects top crux move on left.
*Sabre Cut VS 4c
Another one! Follow the shot holes - top one takes a bomber small friend - to ledge. Another slot takes a good small friend. Friends in the sabre cut crack protect the top move right. Cleaned April 2009.
Please only include routes from surrounding areas if they are worth doing and the rock is clean. Much of Vag Crap Wall and Philander Wall is unclimbable due to complete takeover by gorse and Gazebo Wall is practically a waterfall all year round.
Note Top of Vag Crap Wall cleaned & provided with stake belays April - May 09. Memorial Wall & Vag Crap wall form a sun trap & give superb high ball bouldering - or top roping (tip - the cruxes are often at the top).
