Pex Wall RoutesThis is a featured page

***The Web HVS 5a (lead ascent)
The corner that joins Pex and Lady Jane Walls will hold gear in the breaks. One puzzling move (5b for shorties) at mid height leads to easy ground. Avoid pulling too hard on the flake on Pex Wall at the top. This is cemented in place and will not take abuse lightly!

* Pex Wall E3 6a
A good rising traverse following obvious break. E3 6a (last moves into Cobweb Crack hardest). Can be extended but needs cleaning.

Eliminate Four 5c (Pex grades!)
Wall immediately right of The Web (no touching)

**The Witch 5b
Good climbing but friable top. Not recommended as a lead.

Four Jays E2 5b
Three poor pockets light the way. Protection can be found but fiddly. Be careful with friable top.

** The Wizard E2 5b
Also known as 'the route to the tree' for obvious reasons. Tricky moves to break and friend and small nut protection. Higher up an old bolt head (large!) can be threaded to protect top moves. The wall immediately to the left can be climbed at 5c via a small finger pocket.

Green Monster E4 6a
One hard and easily fluffable 6a move to break - good large nut protection (once you've made the move!). Then up to good mid sized friend and small friend above. Beware friable top. Often damp.

**Alchemy E3 6a
From peg on Warlock move left then up via lovely little finger pocket and small friends. Deserves stars.

** Warlock. E2 5b/c.
Start up Alchemy and make a hard move from two small crimps (crux), move up then trend right and head up towards a large rock scar (soft touch for the suggested E3 in previous guides). Certainly an easier proposition than Dateline. Can be led using the in situ peg at two thirds height then several small friends.

**Warcry E3/4 6a/6b
Make goey moves (sometimes damp) to break and peg which protects technical crux (peg hard to clip for short arses and crux move involves long reach too!). Still goey above with small friend protection (and one big one!). Deserves stars.

Warmonger 6b NL
Just to right. Very long reaches.

* Cobweb Crack E1/2 5b/5c
The crack is nowhere near as hard as Dateline. Leading is possible but watch out for the slime which may thwart the budding ascensionist. When clean and dry feels like a different route. Please don't put top ropes in the crack as it causes erosion and sand to wash down.

Spiderman 6b NL?
Immediately right of the crack (no touching!) with very hard reachy finish. A good one to try on a top rope if you've waltzed the crack. However, the left hand side of the crack is better (and less damp) and a similar grade though just as reachy at the top.

*** Warlord E3 6a
One of Pex's best routes. A diagonal line rightwards starting from obvious niche. Adequate protection (tip - the obvious horizontal crack takes much smaller friends than seems likely!). Overhangs!

* *The Pacifist 6b+ NL?
A counterdiagonal to Warlord. Very hard fingery finale on the headwall.

* Innocent 6a NL?
Needs a good clean!




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Pekkie
Latest page update: made by Pekkie , Oct 20 2009, 6:32 PM EDT (about this update About This Update Pekkie Edited by Pekkie


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Pekkie Pex Wall 0 Apr 18 2007, 5:47 PM EDT by Pekkie
Thread started: Apr 18 2007, 5:47 PM EDT  Watch
Watch out on this wall as the holds at the top can be friable. And you get damp patches.
Most of the routes can be led with friends and the odd peg, wire looped over bolt heads, threads, etc. Though all of this can be very fiddly and strength sapping on sight!
I clean these routes every year early on in the season so be sparing in the 'Billy Big Balls' comments on grading...
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