Pisa Wall RoutesThis is a featured page

Please use the following format and place routes in the correct order (furthest left at the top & furthest right at the bottom).

***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for Pisa Wall and Lady Jane routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please dont just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).

The Widow

Polar Bear

Time Passages

Cyclops

Two Eyes V0 4c

Climb straight up to the two huge slots (eyes) and trend slightly left to reach the break ( below the behive).From here commiting moves can lead to the top.

Cornea

**Willy Simm's Silly Whim V6 6b

Climb direct up the tiny arete to a lovely rockover, which gains a reasonable hold for your left hand. The crux is leaving this and gaining the break via a shallow pocket (very reachy).

Retina

Namless

Eliminate 4b

Start under the left edge of the beehive (scoop). Head up to two huge holds.
It may just be harder than a ladder?

Goliath

Square Four

Greeting

Handshake

Climb up to a positive slot for the right hand (which can be cammed) then get feet up and make a large move to shake hands with the vertical slot before positive holds enable an easy exit.

Pisa Wall V0 4a

When this isn't being top roped by local scout groups it makes a good warm up. Makes for a good first "solo" for someone building confidence as the top out is very positive.

Straight Crack V0 4b


Take the classic flake to the top of the wall. Use the two hidden jugs on either side of the rope-worn scoop to top-out. Excellent.


Eliminate Wall

Unknown Climber on mankey Road by Jamie LightMankey Road V2 5b

The right hand crack may prove puzzling for virgins. Step those feet up! The top out can be character building for the uninitiated.





















Monkey Grip

Gain the large (amazing) pocket, then using a devious hand sequence and getting ones feet up, make a long move left to good holds in the break. The top out uses the juicy two finger pocket and some knee action in the little cave above.

Green Streak

Fingers

Bushy Tale

One Move

Thumb Screw

**Commando V3 5c

Climb the wall to the left of the rib via a pocket for your left hand and a long reach, or better still. Gain the two huge jugs on the break and dyno to the top. Best dyno in Pex, it all just fits!

Gorilla V3 5c

Take the rib of the right edge of the wall. Use a small pocket on the right of the rib to rock up into the break to glory. Easier for lankys.

Pisa Traverse 5c

This brilliant, pumpy traverse starts at Gorilla and goes to Two Eyes. The essence of climbing at Pex, the last few metres are the crux.


Fatneck
Fatneck
Latest page update: made by Fatneck , Apr 18 2008, 5:42 PM EDT (about this update About This Update Fatneck Edited by Fatneck

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Will_Hunt My first time. 0 Apr 13 2007, 6:21 AM EDT by Will_Hunt
Thread started: Apr 13 2007, 6:21 AM EDT  Watch
Tim Emmett had visited our school to give a "motivational" speech. It featured pictures of him doing some of the most amazing climbing. I wasnt a "proper" climber at the time but Id been going to Awesome Walls on and off since I was 8. As soon as I left the lecture I knew I wanted to get outside. Getting Tims book, Preposterous Tales, for Christmas worked as a catalyst so I went to the North West Face and upgraded my size 5 Scarpa Helixes to a size 9 pair of Scarpa Visions. I had heard there was climbing to be had at Pex Hill so I walked up there. Heading down the steps with my shiny new shoes I picked out something easy looking and, with trepidation, went for it.

Straight Crack went easily enough and I stood at the top feeling very exhilerated. It was then that I realised I hadnt thought about how toget down. I looked around me and couldnt see any missing railings (what an idiot). I panicked and started to downclimb Straight Crack! I dont know how I managed it because the top out of that climb still confuses me.

Went on to see Pete Chadwick solo Bermuda Triangle later that day and knew I had to have it!
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