Staminade Wall RoutesThis is a featured page

***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for Pisa Wall and Lady Jane routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please dont just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).

Ewan McCallum eyes up a solo of The Knife***The Knife E5 6a
One of the best lines in the place. The huge soaring arete dominates the Dateline Bay and can be quite intimidating to look at. Climb mainly on the right side of the arete but check out the pockets on the left side before setting off. Other guides have recommended leading with amigos in the pockets. Forget it! You'll need those pockets to get up the thing and besides, who has amigos anyway? E5 is for the solo. Beware the top out which is not as positive as it appears. Local legend has it that one of the first few ascents ended in near disaster. The candidate came to the crux, heel hooked the arete and slapped onto with his hand. Not quite making the grade he was spat off and did a full backwards somersault in the air before landing on his feet to climb another day!



* Catemytes Crack 6b NL?
The continuation of Main Wall above the first peg.

** Main Wall E5 6b
Follow shallow corner to peg then traverse R to peg on Staminade. First ascent Phil Davidson 1980's. Line between Staminade and Main Wall would go but at least 6c!

***Staminade E6 6b
Grade is for leading using the old bolt head's( uninspiring!) Top peg is a bomber however.
A tricky start leads up the wall, Layback the groove and sprint to the top before a flash pump occurs. Dusty and wet at most times this will need a serious tidy before an attempt is made. Probably the best line at the crag?? First ascent top rope Joe Healey 1980's. Soloed by Phil Davidson in the early 90's. The first move is one of the easiest so you can quickly discover if you've got a chance on it!


Lemonade
?? 6b? This and next two routes top roped by Joe Healey in 80's. Would benefit from a thorough clean-up and some Nesscliffe style protection (!?)

Pernod and Black ?? 6b?

Rum and Cocaine ?? 6b?





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Pekkie
Latest page update: made by Pekkie , Apr 23 2008, 8:29 AM EDT (about this update About This Update Pekkie Edited by Pekkie

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Haroldw Legendary fall from the Kniofe 3 Apr 17 2007, 6:02 PM EDT by Will_Hunt
Thread started: Apr 16 2007, 3:57 PM EDT  Watch
It certainly is not an unfounded legend. I was there and saw it. I could name names but not sure if I should.
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