Pex Hill Quarry - Recently Updated Pages

Memorial Wall and surrounding areas routes

Pekkie — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 07:37:03 CST

***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for Pisa Wall and Lady Jane routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please dont just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).

Traverses
A great traverse goes at 5b from the arete at low to mid level to The Rack. Can be continued to Vag Crap traverse R of Memorial Corner. Cleaned up 2009.
Gaming Club Arete and Wall
This once popular area was rehabilitated in Sep 2009 and provided with belays. Section from here to The Rack completed Dec 09.
Gaming Club 5a/5b
The obvious arete. Technical and tricky. For those less than 6'4'', solid Pex 5b
Unnamed route to right 6b?
Just to right of arete to first borehole. Polished at bottom, reachy at top
Sandinista 6a
From first mini corner to third borehole and cave. Move L to line of holds above cave then back R to tough finish
Fallout Zone 5c
A good route. From second mini corner climb to small flake then nice moves to obvious pocket. Finish is crux.
Pure Mania 6a/6b
From third mini corner climb direct with fingery/reachy crux
Casino Club left (unnamed) 6a
Start 5 feet L of obvious corner (Casino Club 5a) and climb diagonally R to flake halfway up corner. Use this to move back onto wall and climb diagonally L. To climb direct would be at least 6c.
Casino club 5a
Obvious corner
The Talisman 4c
Centre of wall via old peg slots
A Route 3a
Obvious chimney. Useful as a descent route
B route 3a
Ledges and wide crack to R
Bramble 5a
Corner groove
Ramble 4c
Direct to oak tree (belay)
Short Crack 4b
Climb the pocketed wall to the short flake and the recess. Quick & dirty.
Heather Wall 5b
Bon Ami 5a
Direct to cut out at top
Bon Gre Malgre 5b *
From edge of ledge. don't fall off!
Master Race E5 6b?
A few feet left of the rack, make moves from a broken pebble/sidepull to gain the left most pocket of the lower three( a bit eliminate!). From here gain the left most edge of the rack and contemplate a scary mantle (crux), which is just a bit higher than you would like. From here ???. Short but committing, with an awkward and shelved landing zone. You may want to employ more than one spotter?

***The Rack HVS 5a
Reachy climbing between spaced holds. Harder for the short (but not that hard). Very soft touch for E1. Be careful not to fluff the top out (very sandy)!. Top cleaned & gorse removed May 09.

The Rack Wall then merges into Torture Wall. Overgrowth and `seepage meant that it fell into disuse. This area - Torture Wall - was rehabilitated 2009 and is now clean and dry and provided with belays.

Just right of The Rack:

Pipe Down 5c
The thin crack. Hard bridging and finger layaways to start. Belay on tree.

The next three routes are on excellent rock and soloable with a good mat but have been provided with belays (set well back) for the prudent! The obvious ledge at eight feet provides a nice hand traverse at 5b.

*Thumbscrew 5b
Line of holds five feet to right.
**Iron Maiden 5c
Up and through the crescent shaped scoop. Crux at the top. A Pex classic from the old days.

The blank wall to the right awaits an ascent.

*Garotte 5b Start to the left of obvious V cut out. Move right to finish up cut out.
Bon Bon 4a The obvious corner.
Gazebo 5a The right wall of the corner

Memorial Wall is a sun trap and gives nice bouldering. Was once most popular bit of Pex. Rehabilitated April-May 09 with added belay.. Ah, nostalgia's not what it used to be....
The low level traverse is a good warm up.

**Sweeney Arete V0 5a
Ascend the arete that joins Gazebo Wall to Memorial Wall which is often wet at the bottom. The top out is more positive on the right hand side. Very nice. Old way down on left cleaned May 09.

*The Robbery V1 5b
Climb the wall just to the right of the arete without using it. The climb takes its name from the second ascent. Phil Davidson repeated the route and stole the pebbles that nestled in the slot at the top.
Headstone V4 6a
Crux at top! Scary.
**Memorial Wall 4b
Wind left and then right to mantle.
*Tombstone 5a
Pleasant.
*Memorial Corner 4b
Frequently wet. Bone dry May 09.

The routes on Vag Crap wall to the right are just about soloable but take a good mat! Rehabilitated and belays installed 2009.

**Hunter's Walk V2 5c
One of the best little lines of Pex and a scary outing. Five feet right of corner. The top out was often overgrown and slopey. Top cleaned off April 2009 and is now OK.
*St Paul V2 5c/6a
Ten feet right. Obvious line of pockets. Cleaned May 09. Right hand finish into cut-out is OK at 5c but left hand and direct are both solid pex 6a - tip, big pocket at top is not as accommodating as it looks. First ascent Paul Bolger - called Caligula but went in guide as St Paul because Phil Davidson couldn't spell Caligula.
*Weasel 5b
10 feet right into cut out. Line of pockets which provide good undercuts.
*Ferret 5a Just to right
*Vag Crap Traverse 6a
A classic test-piece with feet a few feet off the deck from Corner to Swinging Gulch. If you cruise this try the low level one at 6c with feet a foot off the deck (1st ascent Willy Simm). So-called because the first ascentionist was thown out of the Vagabonds club! Pebbles chipped out by amateur geologists & repaired by amateur sandstone repairmen.
*Swinging Gulch VS 4c
A Pex rarity - a well-protected VS on perfect rock! Top cleaned April 2009. Climb to cave passing two perfect nut cracks. A big friend protects top crux move on left.
*Sabre Cut VS 4c
Another one! Follow the shot holes - top one takes a bomber small friend - to ledge. Another slot takes a good small friend. Friends in the sabre cut crack protect the top move right. Cleaned April 2009.

Please only include routes from surrounding areas if they are worth doing and the rock is clean. Much of Vag Crap Wall and Philander Wall is unclimbable due to complete takeover by gorse and Gazebo Wall is practically a waterfall all year round.
Note Top of Vag Crap Wall cleaned & provided with stake belays April - May 09. Memorial Wall & Vag Crap wall form a sun trap & give superb high ball bouldering - or top roping (tip - the cruxes are often at the top).

Pex Hill News

Pekkie — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 07:28:16 CST

Dec 09 Last section between Gaming Club arete and The Rack completed. Phew! Next project....Frogsmouth!
Oct 09
Gaming Club arete (the obvious arete to R of The Web) and wall to R rehabilitated and provided with belays. Still some gorse and dust.

Sep 09
Rehabilitation of Torture Wall (between The Rack and Memorial Wall) completed and wiki updated.

May 09
Rehabilitation of Memorial Wall/Vag Crap Wall - once a popular pex venue - completed.

April 09
Updated Memorial Wall & outlying areas. Hunters Walk (top now OK), Swinging Gulch & Sabre Cut cleaned. Latter two are well protected VS's on good rock.

2nd June 08
Updated Dateline, Staminade & Pex (plus bit of lady Jane Wall from Harts Arete to Web) Walls, and will try and do rest soon. Included details of protection for leadable routes on Pex Wall where I think it is justified. Pekkie.

19th May 08
About a hundred teenagers celebrating in the Quarry last friday night, lots of bottles chucked about- didn't hang around to see the damage

March 08
The annual clean-up of Pex has begun. Thanks to all involved. The area on top of Lady Jane Wall has now been cleared.

13th April
Today saw an impromptu solo of black magic by Local lad Lawrance Eccles (AKA "The Lank"). After a brief warm up un the pisa wall he decided to see how his fingers felt on the starting holds, having made his way to the crux, he decided to push on to the top! A good effort considering he hadn't cleaned the route.
Good to see not everyone is superstitious on Friday the 13th.

11th April
I Have made a start by adding all the route names (so far I have added to Lady jane wall and Pex wall) for the various walls and will add descriptions of the ones i have done/do as i go. I will try to finish this by tomorrow, that way it will stay organised and anyone can just add in the grades & descriptions as they go.

I will also try to get some info into the Location of Pex hill quarry page ASAP!

11th April
Breakaway and Catalepsy have been cleaned and their topouts cleared. Thanks to Ewan and Nigel for that. Time to get on the classic Catalepsy.

5th April 2007
New picture in the photo gallery.

4th April 2007
Dateline wall joins Lady Jane Wall as being fit to climb on. Today saw an ascent of Black Magic and reports say that the wall is clean and fairly dry. Never a better time to Never Mind The Acid.
The Knife, much of which is slow drying, is also in prime condition and should remain so for much of the rest of the season.

1st April 2007
Air ambulance called to Pex Hill. Climber had fallen from the top move of Cobweb Crack while soloing. Reports suggest that he is battered but sustained no broken bones.
News article here

Memorial Wall & surrounding areas

Pekkie — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 07:25:32 CST

The Memorial Wall holds some good quality rock and some good routes in the form of nearby Hunters Walk and Sweeney Arete. Area to right of Memorial Wall - Vag Crap Wall - and to the left - Torture Wall - and the area between the "The Rack" and the Gaming Club arete - rehabilitated and provided with belays 2009.

Dateline Wall Routes

Pekkie — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:34:29 CDT

Pex Wall Routes

Pekkie — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:32:18 CDT

***The Web HVS 5a (lead ascent)
The corner that joins Pex and Lady Jane Walls will hold gear in the breaks. One puzzling move (5b for shorties) at mid height leads to easy ground. Avoid pulling too hard on the flake on Pex Wall at the top. This is cemented in place and will not take abuse lightly!

* Pex Wall E3 6a
A good rising traverse following obvious break. E3 6a (last moves into Cobweb Crack hardest). Can be extended but needs cleaning.

Eliminate Four 5c (Pex grades!)
Wall immediately right of The Web (no touching)

**The Witch 5b
Good climbing but friable top. Not recommended as a lead.

Four Jays E2 5b
Three poor pockets light the way. Protection can be found but fiddly. Be careful with friable top.

** The Wizard E2 5b
Also known as 'the route to the tree' for obvious reasons. Tricky moves to break and friend and small nut protection. Higher up an old bolt head (large!) can be threaded to protect top moves. The wall immediately to the left can be climbed at 5c via a small finger pocket.

Green Monster E4 6a
One hard and easily fluffable 6a move to break - good large nut protection (once you've made the move!). Then up to good mid sized friend and small friend above. Beware friable top. Often damp.

**Alchemy E3 6a
From peg on Warlock move left then up via lovely little finger pocket and small friends. Deserves stars.

** Warlock. E2 5b/c.
Start up Alchemy and make a hard move from two small crimps (crux), move up then trend right and head up towards a large rock scar (soft touch for the suggested E3 in previous guides). Certainly an easier proposition than Dateline. Can be led using the in situ peg at two thirds height then several small friends.

**Warcry E3/4 6a/6b
Make goey moves (sometimes damp) to break and peg which protects technical crux (peg hard to clip for short arses and crux move involves long reach too!). Still goey above with small friend protection (and one big one!). Deserves stars.

Warmonger 6b NL
Just to right. Very long reaches.

* Cobweb Crack E1/2 5b/5c
The crack is nowhere near as hard as Dateline. Leading is possible but watch out for the slime which may thwart the budding ascensionist. When clean and dry feels like a different route. Please don't put top ropes in the crack as it causes erosion and sand to wash down.

Spiderman 6b NL?
Immediately right of the crack (no touching!) with very hard reachy finish. A good one to try on a top rope if you've waltzed the crack. However, the left hand side of the crack is better (and less damp) and a similar grade though just as reachy at the top.

*** Warlord E3 6a
One of Pex's best routes. A diagonal line rightwards starting from obvious niche. Adequate protection (tip - the obvious horizontal crack takes much smaller friends than seems likely!). Overhangs!

* *The Pacifist 6b+ NL?
A counterdiagonal to Warlord. Very hard fingery finale on the headwall.

* Innocent 6a NL?
Needs a good clean!

Pex Wall

Pekkie — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:29:52 CDT

Pex Wall is the wall adjoined to Lady Jane Wall by The Web. Much of the climbing involves linking the breaks by tricky moves though there is a good but often damp crack climb and a traverse available (mid height crack-line Pex Wall). This wall see less traffic than the right of Lady Jane as most of the climbing is harder and the wall can tend towards greenness. Also, some of the finishes can be friable. However, there are some excellent routes here, including one of the best at Pex - Warlord. There is a good low level traverse which makes a good warm up. And could top ropers of Cobweb Crack PLEASE not put the rope in the crack as it causes erosion and sand washing down.

Lady Jane Wall Routes

Pekkie — Mon, 02 Jun 2008 18:39:52 CDT

***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please don't just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).

Too Bold For Steve Boot V1 5b
Use the nastily sloping ramp to crank to the jug. The huge jug on the "arete" is most definately not in. If used its more like 4c.

Set Square
...

**Tequila Sunrise V2 5c
Use a circular hold thats better than it looks to perform a (beautiful) rock over onto a small ledge. From here use small holds to gain the "jug that is not a jug" before catching the top. A hold that appears poor and a hold thats not as positive as it seems make for much discovery in such a short route. One of my Pex Hill "Top 5". If only it were longer.

**Harvey Wallbanger V2 5c
Use the twin slots and a small edge to reach the big jug. The faint of heart can use the huge tree branch to top out. Another of my personal Pex Hill favourites.

Black Russian
Hard to find and dirty. Not even sure if Ive done this one or whether it was merely a contrived eliminate. Will reserve judgment for someone who has made a definite ascent.

*Lew's Leap V1 5b
Climb to the first of the beehives. The top out can be assisted by the railing.

Finger Ripper
...

***Bermuda Triangle E2/E3(?) 6a
A fantastic route that may require several bouldering mats to reach the starting holds if you're short. Use a series of monos and a jug to reach the second beehive. The crux is getting off the ground but another tricky move (5b/5c) remains at the top for those who wish to top out. Shorties can try...

Cosine Alternative
...

Breakaway V6 6b(+?)
The problem has suffered from wire brushing but discussion on a new grade has resulted in popular opinion being that the climb is only slightly easier than before. Andy Popp disagrees and believes it to be considerably easier. Use small holds to reach a desperate move from the crescent hold to the jug. Topping out optional and requiring intense gardening beforehand. The technical grade was previously 6c but is now probably lower. I have suggested 6b+ as it feels considerable harder than 6b to me but seeing as Ive never knowingly done a 6c move before Im leaving the final decision to someone more in the know. If you have repeated this in its new state then please suggest a grade.

***Catalepsy

***Monoblock

** Bernie

Termination

Philarmonic

** Algripper E2 5c
A real tall mans route. Those who are lanky enough will be able to stretch past all difficulties and find the crux to be a rock up low down. Tinies are not so lucky and should be more cautious of this solo.

Jurssic Pork

Crossbow

** Lady Jane E1 5c
Trend right to the large beehives at the top wherein lie a pair of jugs. Downclimb rightwards via twinscoops if nervous or top out.

Sidestep

Twin Scoops Direct

*Twin Scoops HVS 4c/5a
An easy mantel on to the top ledge leads to a traverse left on thank god jugs and poor foot holds (can feel bold the first time you do it). Finish direct up the left niche(scoop). A good route to get your soloing head back on!

Twin Scoops Right Hand

** Creeping Jesus
Use the cracks (nut protection?) to the right of Twin Scoops to climb to better holds.

Kitt's Wall

The Black Pimp From Marseilles
The route takes its name from a character that a local met while hitch hiking.

Unicorn

Cave Route Right Hand

Ladytron

** Cardiac Arete E4 6b
Difficult moves lead to a large Jug. From here put you heart in your mouth and make precarious/bouldery (V5) moves (crux) to reach easier ground.

***Hart's Arete E4 6b
A puzzling boulder problem start (V3 Ha ha!) leads to the break. From here slightly easier climbing leads to the top. Protection can be arranged via a small friend on the arete and a medium sized nut in the triangular cut-out on on the right then a bomber friend 1 in the slot near the top. Fiend thinks this is E3.

**Zigger Zagger 5b
A devilishly sloping top-out which has been the cause of several accidents. Can be done direct at 5c and to the right also at 5c.

**Big Greenie E3 5c
Pete Chadwick's guide shows the wrong start for this. It takes the exquisitely technical pex 5c problem to the left of Crack and Up to a large friend in the horizontal crack to the left. The top second crux 5c move to a sloping top (you've been warned) is protected by a small friend in a slot up on the left. A very good route.

The Hulk 5c
Takes same start as Big Greenie but then goes slightly right to large pod to left of Crack and Up.

Harts Arete Traverse
High V3
Low V5/6?
Ultra low (The Grand horizontal) V9+
The high traverse follows the obvious break and can be done in both directions between Crack and Up & Unicorn. Grade: Remains the same.
The low traverse follows the obvious break and can be done in both directions between Crack and Up & Unicorn. Grade : Feels very hard/pumpy for V5. Personally I felt it was closer to V7 for effort( but then maybe I'm just being a big girl).
The ultra low traverse is more eliminate and uses all the poor holds at waist height. it starts at the good hold on Unicorn and then drops down to small side pulls. finish at Hearts Arete. Grade V9+. There is also another (even harder) low traverse from Harts Arete to Crack and Up. This goes at a similar grade V9/10?. Link both and feel the pump! Grade V10/11?

**Crack And Up E1 5b
A tricky start leads to a break for gear and bold but considerably easier (and well protected from halfway) climbing above to the final crack. All manner of variation starts can be made.

*Corner and Overhang 5b
Take Crack and Up start but when you reach break move right then up to boreholes and top via the overhang which is surprisingly easy.

**McArthur Park 6a start then 5a
Utilises obvious rounded pocket as foothold. Nice climbing above - well protected too.

**Eliminate One E2 5b
A filler in if ever there was one, but surpisingly good and independent climbing. Take boulder problem start immediately to the left of the Abort then up to horizontal crack at 3/4 height which provides good friend protection for nice top moves.

**The Abort E1 5a
A lovely route. Protection is best arranged as for previous route. Take care with flake near top - letterbox is better option.

**Eliminate Two E2 5c
Another filler in but again surprisingly good and independent climbing. Take boulder problem start between the Abort and One Step (tip - think Egyptian) aiming for the left hand end of the One Step mini cave. A wonderful two finger pocket (if you can find it) is the key to the top moves.

** One Step E1 5a
Step off the rock in the ground and climb the wall direct past the alcove and mini cave above. Protection can be arranged in the horizontal crack between the two.

*Eliminate Three 5c
An eliminate (now there's a surprise). Climb the left hand wall of the Web. Surprisingly technical and strenuous.

***The Web HVS 5a/5b
A cool corner that the tall will dispatch with ease. Minis will have to use the pair of smears on the opposing walls to gain the higher handholds. Well protected with WC rocks and/or small friends. Take care with the flake near the top.

Dateline Wall

Pekkie — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:00:15 CDT

The Dateline Wall is the largest in the quarry and climbs can reach 12 metres high. The wall takes its name from its most obvious feature, the crack "Dateline" which was first ascended by Rick Newcombe and Geoff Ashton in the 1960's. Most of the routes are hard, technical and gearless. The crack will take gear but leave a long period of warmth and no rain to allow the upper section to dry as it can become very slimy. The wall comes into its prime later in the year than the Lady Jane but with almost every climb being of a fine quality it's certainly worth the wait. Caution is given to climbers of Dateline as large rock falls have occurred recently from the crumbling top of the crack. To prevent further erosion please remember to extend your belays and lay rope away from the obvious eroded section. There is a good low level traverse (feet generally about five feet off the deck) which goes from about 10 feet right of Dateline rightwards to the corner at about Pex 5c. Superstars can link to the Pisa Wall traverse at the Two Eyes at 6b/6c.

Dateline Wall Topo
Click here to view and edit the dateline wall interactive topo!

Staminade Wall Routes

Pekkie — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 07:29:54 CDT

Pisa Wall Routes

Fatneck — Fri, 18 Apr 2008 16:42:08 CDT

Please use the following format and place routes in the correct order (furthest left at the top & furthest right at the bottom).

***Route Name Grade (Please use bouldering grades for Pisa Wall and Lady Jane routes to the left of Bermuda Triangle. Please dont just swipe grades from existing guides. Use your best judgment. If you think a grade is wrong then make an edit and provide an edit note)
Route Description (written by you please. Don't steal descriptions from rockfax).

The Widow

Polar Bear

Time Passages

Cyclops

Two Eyes V0 4c

Climb straight up to the two huge slots (eyes) and trend slightly left to reach the break ( below the behive).From here commiting moves can lead to the top.

Cornea

**Willy Simm's Silly Whim V6 6b

Climb direct up the tiny arete to a lovely rockover, which gains a reasonable hold for your left hand. The crux is leaving this and gaining the break via a shallow pocket (very reachy).

Retina

Namless

Eliminate 4b

Start under the left edge of the beehive (scoop). Head up to two huge holds.
It may just be harder than a ladder?

Goliath

Square Four

Greeting

Handshake

Climb up to a positive slot for the right hand (which can be cammed) then get feet up and make a large move to shake hands with the vertical slot before positive holds enable an easy exit.

Pisa Wall V0 4a

When this isn't being top roped by local scout groups it makes a good warm up. Makes for a good first "solo" for someone building confidence as the top out is very positive.

Straight Crack V0 4b

Take the classic flake to the top of the wall. Use the two hidden jugs on either side of the rope-worn scoop to top-out. Excellent.

Eliminate Wall

Mankey Road V2 5b

The right hand crack may prove puzzling for virgins. Step those feet up! The top out can be character building for the uninitiated.

Monkey Grip

Gain the large (amazing) pocket, then using a devious hand sequence and getting ones feet up, make a long move left to good holds in the break. The top out uses the juicy two finger pocket and some knee action in the little cave above.

Green Streak

Fingers

Bushy Tale

One Move

Thumb Screw

**Commando V3 5c

Climb the wall to the left of the rib via a pocket for your left hand and a long reach, or better still. Gain the two huge jugs on the break and dyno to the top. Best dyno in Pex, it all just fits!

Gorilla V3 5c

Take the rib of the right edge of the wall. Use a small pocket on the right of the rib to rock up into the break to glory. Easier for lankys.

Pisa Traverse 5c

This brilliant, pumpy traverse starts at Gorilla and goes to Two Eyes. The essence of climbing at Pex, the last few metres are the crux.

Photo Gallery

Will_Hunt — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 18:37:00 CDT

1964/65 - not sure of routes (It's been a while), I've been told the top one is Straight Crack, no idea of the others (thanks Will).

Note the expensive harness, we upgraded later with hemp waist lines wrapped round loads of time before moving on to a Whillans harness.

Loads of protection?

A bit more gear in this time, and clumpy boots. We didn't wear helmets on our motorbikes either.

Algripper (E2 5c)

Hart's Arete (E4 6a)

Big Ewan sizes up a solo of The Knife (E5 6a)

Black Magic

Welcome to the Pex Hill Quarry wiki!

Will_Hunt — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 18:20:51 CDT

Greetings! This is a wiki for fans of climbing at Pex Hill Quarry in the North West of England. Feel free to browse the site and add anything that may be missing.

Getting to Pex is easy, just use this map.

A Brief History of Pex Hill Quarry

NjA — Sat, 07 Apr 2007 01:23:03 CDT

The quarry that we see today was first begun in the 16th century. Excavation was continued and reached a peak in the 19th century. Quarrying ceased in 1893. During the second world war the quarry was used as a target practice range which is how Pisa Wall got its distinctive round pockets. This works in direct contrast to Lady Jane Wall which is more slabby and features crimps on the left hand side and breaks on the right hand side.

It is hard to say when climbing began in the quarry but the earliest FA I have been able to find is "Dateline (E2 5c) FA Rick Newcombe and Geoff Ashton, 1960s". It is certain that much climbing was done prior to this as there are many easier routes available.

Climbing continued and soon Pex Hill became the training ground for a young Phil Davidson and Joe Healey. Both went on to great things with Phil completing the first solo ascents of Cockblock and Right Wall.

Climbing is still of an excellent standard at Pex despite the recent wire brushing of Breakaway and the chipping on Lady Jane Wall.

Staminade Wall

Will_Hunt — Mon, 02 Apr 2007 18:21:16 CDT

Staminade Wall offers exclusivley hard climbing which is, unfortunately, often dusty. The most popular climb is no doubt The Knife which forms the dramatic and impressive arete. A favourite place for the local wildlife to sit atop.

Lady Jane Wall

Will_Hunt — Mon, 02 Apr 2007 17:05:04 CDT

The Lady Jane Wall offers mostly crimpy climbing at its left end and some long breaks at its right. The climbing is short at the left end nearest the steps but soon lengthens out into routes of about 10 metres. The winter will often see much of the wall turn green as can be seen in the photo on this page. Once the wall has dried out for the summer it usually stays in good condition till the winter.
When entering details of routes please give trad grades to those routes to the right of and including Bermuda Triangle. I feel that exceptions would include Monoblock, Breakaway and Catalepsy as their bouldery nature would make trad grades inappropriate (I say this after talking to other climbers. Of course, I have not done Monoblock).

Pisa Wall

Will_Hunt — Thu, 22 Mar 2007 16:44:24 CDT

Pisa Wall is the first wall on your right as you walk down the steps to the quarry. This wall boasts a mix of crimps and slopers including the world famous Vitalite Constellation! The distinct sloping dishes and pockets were caused by the walls function as a target practice range for the home guard during WWII.
Most climbs are given bouldering grades although some can be highball towards the left end.
Believe it or not this wall was once aided and the peg scars are visible to this day.

The slightly overhanging nature of some of the wall and its sheltered position mean that Pisa Wall stays dry for most of the year and rarely see green-ness.